It was my 41st birthday on October 2, 2012, but so far the morning had been spent in the rather bleak location of the concentration camp of Dachau, Germany. Things began to look up a bit as we left there around noon and headed north along the so-called Romantic Road that weaves through 220 miles of the Bavarian region of southern Germany. We picked up the road near its most southern point and followed in nearly 3/4 of the way, stopping about two and a half hour later, arriving in Rothenburg ob der Tauber (which translates as “red fortress above the Tauber”). Bryan & Erine had been here before so staying in this cool Medieval city for the evening had been their recommendation.
We checked into our room at the Hotel Am weissen Turm, a perfectly nice bed & breakfast. This time we had three rooms, and I camped out on the futon in Mom’s and Bob’s room. I was able to secure an internet connection and begin to check my birthday wishes coming through via Facebook, most of them referencing the fact that I was in Germany by using said language to deliver them.
The Bob & Tom Show hits the streets of Rothenburg
Our room and the intricate ceiling above us
By 3:15, our group was hitting the streets. Mom immediately gravitated to a store called Rothenburger Uhrenhaus – “The Clock Shop.” There was much time spent as she browsed and mulled over which clock she liked and how much she wanted to spend on purchasing one. I found a little place called Backerei Konditorei Cafe across the street and dove into a Stracciatella Milchspeiseeis gelato cone.
On the streets of Rothenburg
There’s always room for gelato
We spent the next two and a half hours or so exporing the city on foot, visiting many of the specialty shops such as the Christkindlmarkt and Teddyland, checking out the Marktplatz area which features the impressive Rathaus (Town Hall), and enjoying the many sights of this Medieval town, which still had the Town Wall intact around the border of the city. Not only did we roam outside the wall for some spectacular views, but we were also able to climb and circle the wall to get a bird’s eye view of the city. We also visited a local bakery to try one of the famous Schneeballens, an egg fried dough covered in various confections. Quite frankly, they weren’t all that great.
The Rathaus (left) and town square
Our group on the town square… tourists
Mom and Diana start their Christmas shopping early
If you didn’t figure it out already, Christkindlmarkt sells Christmas wares. I learned the hard way that cameras in the store were frowned upon.
Bryan and I try to get our act together
Me and Tom and our new pal at Teddyland
Outside the city wall, overlooking the housing on the outskirts of Rothernburg
Diana and Hans
Bob and Mom at the Western Town Gate
Rotten Brad in Rothenburg
The photo that is the most likely candidate to be a record album cover
Erine bought us three different varieties of Schneeballens, each of them as unimpressive as the next
The Plönlein Marketplace and the Siebers Gate
One of the famous sites in Rothenburg; it would make a great Facebook cover photo
Mom, Erine, and Bob ascend the town wall
The follower
Little house under the wall
In an effort to find the perfect one, Bob touches every clock
We made dinner reservations that night for the Hotel Reichskuchenmeister. Since it was my birthday, I really wanted to go all out so I ordered the incredible Schmankerlpfanne, better described as schweinelendchen mit rahmpfifferlingen, which would be even better described as tenderloin of pork, chanterelles in cream sauce, and spaetzle gratinated with cheese. I capped this with some red wine, Markelshemier Tauberberg, and some kürbissuppe mit kürbiskernöl – otherwise known as pumpkin soup.
Mom was nice enough to purchase a delightful cheese appetizer tray that included a variety of regional cheeses with fig mustard and bread. But the real topper was when made Mom asked the waiter if they did anything special for birthdays. They did, in fact. The brought enough dessert for everyone and their brother, which included chocolate mousse, strudels, and ice cream with a giant sparkler going off in them. Plus they brought us a pitcher of water, because they know how much we “Americans like their water.” This was all fine and good, but they added the charge of 25 Euros onto Mom’s bill. Crazy Germans. Some of us felt bad enough to kick in five euros to the cause.
Birthday boy pumpkin soup
Say cheese. Then eat it.
Schweinelendchen mit rahmpfifferlingen. Try saying that three times fast… or once slowly.
The gang shows up for my birthday party
What could be better than a tray of desserts this incredible? Getting it free.
Fit, fat, and full, we stopped back at the hotel for a few minutes and then met back in the Marktplatz Night Watchman tour at 8pm. This was a mere walking tour of much of the ground that we had already covered, but made palatable by our colorful and interesting Night Watchman, who described the amazing history of this town that was established around 1170. The most interesting tale involved how the city was spared from the Allied Powers as we took over Germany during World War 2, merely because a high ranking U.S. official had had a painting of Rothenburg hanging on his wall as a boy and a German official who refused to follow orders, and surrendered the city. The tour was about an hour, and quite packed. Charging seven Euros per head insured that this industrious ‘night watchman’ was making himself a quite comfortable living.
The Night Watchman and the guy he needs to watch
Any questions? Axe this guy.
The Rathaus and town square at night
More nightly views from the town square
We were tired enough that night to skip having wine in the hotel bar, and instead I just continued to check in on the birthday greetings and answer some emails. We crashed relatively early that night.
The next morning, we got up and headed to the neighboring hotel where they were serving a nice European continental breakfast. Then it was back to the clock shop where Mom finally made her decision on which cuckoo clock to purchase. It would eventually get shipped back to the states to be hung on her living room wall.
Mom and Bob at another German breakfast
Before leaving, we visited the Rothenburg Teddy Bear store where I bought gifts for Silas and Jamie. We packed up and headed out of Rothenburg around 11:30am. We spent most of the day on the road as we headed north to Berlin. Including the stop at McDonald’s, it took about seven hours, during which time I listened to my iPod and Erine and I watched the documentary Bill Cunningham New York.
Last stop before Berlin… I try the Thai Chicken at McDonald’s
Erine and Bryan and the Bubble Tea. Europe is always a leg up on us.
Naturally Berlin would bring a whole new series of adventures, coming up next…
Beautiful architecture. Reminds me of Kettering! 😉 A friend of mine recently retired and moved to Germany and he loves it there. Might have to check it out one day. Must have been a great backdrop for your birthday!
Jim Harwood
January 30th, 2013